◼ Finding solutions ↑

“When problems arise and things do not look as good as they should, there is always someone who claims to have a solution for the problems, and is willing to assume the lead. Most of the time, this individual is a madman,” wrote Willy Meurer (born 1934), a German-Canadian businessman and aphorist.

Didn’t feel like reading the whole book, but found the chapter on “Finding solutions” in the table of contents? Fine. Then let’s start from the back. The rest of your basic knowledge will just have to come later. And a warm welcome to the rest of you who have read the book page by page up to this point. Thank you for your attention! The following pages contain tips for everyday problems when taking photographs, along with possible solutions. The advice may not always work, but playing around with the camera beats studying anyway. As an alternative to skimming through the following pages and trying out the instructions they contain, I can only recommend studying the photograph itself.

◼ The photo is too bright ↑

Problem:
Exposure metering was unsuccessful. The photo as a whole is too bright.

Possible solutions:

• pay attention to the exposure level indicator while measuring exposure/focusing in the viewfinder (or on the LCD display). Overexposure (see photo at left) can be corrected by exposure compensation ‘to the left’.
• when measuring exposure, measure a brighter image area. Exposure metering generally occurs at the same time as focusing. If you are focusing on a darker image area (e.g. a black tie, black suit, etc.), this can lead to inaccurate meter values.
• correct the lighting (-) on the camera menu. The exposure can be adjusted individually (usually in 1/3 f-stop increments).
• perform focus and exposure metering operations separately. Usually both of these processes are performed at the same time by the camera. Digital SLR (single-lens reflex) cameras offer the option of using the AE-/AF-button or a *-button to separate these measurements.
• remedy incorrect exposure measurements through subsequent image processing. When raw data is available, the chances of doing a good editing job are higher than when using compressed image data (jpg).
• remedy incorrect exposure measurements through subsequent image processing. When raw data is available, the chances of doing a good editing job are higher than when using compressed image data (jpg).

◼ The photo is too dark ↑

Problem:
Exposure metering was unsuccessful. The photo as a whole is too dark.

Possible solutions:

• pay attention to the exposure level indicator while measuring exposure/focusing in the viewfinder (or on the LCD display). Underexposure (see photo at left) can be corrected by exposure compensation ‘to the right’.
• when measuring exposure, measure a darker image area. Exposure metering generally occurs at the same time as focusing. If you are focusing on a brighter image area (e.g. a white shirt, white wall behind altar, etc.), this can lead to inaccurate meter values.
• correct the lighting (+) on the camera menu. The exposure can be adjusted individually (usually in 1/3 f-stop increments).
• perform focus and exposure metering operations separately. Usually both of these processes are performed at the same time by the camera. Digital SLR (single-lens reflex) cameras offer the option of using the AE-/AF-button or a *-button to separate these measurements.
• remedy incorrect exposure measurements through subsequent image processing. When raw data is available, the chances of doing a good editing job are higher than when using compressed image data (jpg).

◼ The image is blurry ↑

Problem:
Usually the shutter speed is too long. Background: the shutter speed should always be lower than the inverse (reciprocal) of the focal length. Example: focal length of 100 mm = maximum shutter speed of 1/100 or shorter. If the shutter speed is too slow, the image will be blurry.
Attention: non-full-frame cameras have a crop or focal length multiplier of 1.3, 1.6, or 2.0. In digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) cameras, a focal length of 100 mm results in a true focal length of 130 mm, 160 mm, or even 200 mm. The shutter speed must be correspondingly shorter.

Possible solutions:

• when using a creative program or the “Full Auto” or “Program” camera modes: try switching the mode dial to Shutter Priority Tv (Canon) or S (Nikon, Sony, Panasonic), and setting a fast shutter speed (see above for calculation).
• when using the “Shutter Priority” Tv (Canon) or S (Nikon, Sony, Panasonic) camera mode, set the shutter speed to an even shorter value than before.
• increase the ISO value. This will heighten the light sensitivity of the sensor. More light allows for faster shutter speeds. The disadvantage here is the image noise that may set in, depending on the camera model you are using. With many camera models, image noise can already set in when ¼ of the maximum ISO value of the camera is exceeded. For example: the camera is not to exceed an ISO value of 25,600 (possibly designated as H1 or H2). Image noise can barely be recognised (or not at all) at ISO values up to 6,400.
• use a flash (an external one, if possible). More light means shorter shutter speeds, and thus less risk of camera shake. The disadvantage is that flashing lights might interfere in certain situations and that they can produce reflections and shadows.
• use an image stabiliser in the lens or in the camera. The disadvantage here is the higher cost of acquiring lenses or cameras with image stabilisers.
• use brighter lenses. The disadvantage with this option is the high cost of acquisition.
• use a tripod. The disadvantage here is that the motion blur of moving people will also be captured as a result. If the officiant keeps on moving, even the use of a tripod and a shutter speed of 1/10 seconds will not produce a sharp image.

◼ The camera doesn’t focus ↑

Problem:
Poor lighting conditions—for example, when taking photos for divine services or concerts in dark halls—will quickly bring the autofocus function of a camera to its limits. On such occasions, it is often impossible to hear anything other than “sssssss-ssss-sssssss”.

Possible solutions:

• more light: increase the ISO value or use an external flash.
• check to see whether the autofocus (the switch on the lens is marked “AF”) is activated.
• if the autofocus (the switch on the lens is marked “AF”) does not focus, switch to manual focus (the switch on the lens is marked “MF”).

◼ The photo is “noisy” ↑

Problem:
Excessive ISO values will cause image noise.

Possible solutions:

• reduce the ISO value (possibly even use an external flash in order to create light).
• use the camera’s noise reduction setting. Some camera models have available software to help reduce noise. The disadvantage is that the use of noise reduction usually also reduces the image quality.
• set the image format to RAW inside the camera and save more image details for subsequent image processing.
• use noise reduction during the photo editing process. Many image editing programs offer special filters/macros. The disadvantage here too is that the use of noise reduction usually also reduces image quality.

◼ The “message” of the photo has been lost ↑

Problem:
If the image shows too many details, it may be impossible to recognise what the photo is trying to convey.

Possible solutions:

• select a different frame and reduce distracting elements on the sides and in the background.
• reduce the depth of field. A wider aperture (i.e. a lower f-number, e.g. f1.4, f2.0, or f2.8) will ensure that only the immediate area of the subject is sharply displayed and that the foreground/background is blurred. This emphasises the subject, which is now clearly recognisable, especially in the case of more complex motifs.
• use lenses with a larger focal length and thereby reduce the depth of field.

◼ The photo is not sharp enough ↑

Problem:
If the image shows too few details, it may be impossible to recognise what the photo is trying to convey.

Possible solutions:

• select an expanded frame and “imbed” the subject into its surroundings.
• increase the depth of field. A narrower aperture (i.e. a higher f-number, e.g. f10, f16, or f22) will ensure that not only the immediate area of the subject is sharply displayed, but that the foreground/background is also sharpened. This shows the subject within its surroundings, which allows for the image to be recognised as a whole.
• use lenses with a smaller focal length and thereby increase the depth of field.